CLEANING


This step is entirely optional because it's very time consuming and back breaking manual
labor. Besides, how often does your paint get that bad? Anyway, run your hand across
your paint. Does it feel like sandpaper to you? Do you sap, tar, or other crap that
didn't come off after you washed it? Well, these types of contaminants require a bit
stronger cleaning method to remove.
Cleaners will come in an abrasive, non-abrasive, or clay. With newer paints, non-abrasive
and clay is recommended. Just a note, this method is only for removing oxidation, old
wax/polish, and stubborn contaminants. By no means will a cleaner cover up chips, dents,
or remove rust.

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Make sure the car is clean, preferably just washed. You don't want any more loose
dirt than necessary. Make sure your car is in the shade and out of the sun.
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For a liquid cleaner, apply the liquid onto the surface of the car with a clean
cloth. Wait for about 5 minutes and then wipe off vigorously. If the contaminant
refuses to come off, try applying again. You'll know it's clean when the paint
surface starts to squeak when you wipe it with a towel.
Note:
Your paint surface is now buck naked against the harsh elements. Don't forget to at
least wax after this procedure or else! And for really stubborn spots, you may need
an industrial strength buffer to grind it away. But don't take my word on this. Take
it to a professional detailer.
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For clay, wet the area with ample lubricating spray that was included in your clay
kit. Then run the clay across the wet surface and watch as the oxidation is magically
removed!

As I mentioned, this is very time consuming process, especially if you're using clay
because you can only cover a small area at a time. Cleaning time might take from 45-90
minutes, depending on how bad your paint is. The good news is if you take good car of
your car, you'll only probably have to do this procedure once a year at most.
Use non-abrasive liquid cleaners (avoid the paste), and make sure it says "Clear Coat
Safe" on it or else you may remove more than the contaminant! We don't want to kiss that
clear coat goodbye just yet. There are highly effective liquid cleaners out there, but I
prefer Meguair's Deep Crystal Cleaner. It cleaned the surface pretty well, and
left a smooth, squeaky shine.
But I highly recommend the clay. Go out and buy a kit called Clay Magic, which
sells for about $20. That stuff worked some good miracles on my oxidized surface, leaving
it very smooth ... and without the hard rubbing required from a liquid. I showed all my
friends and before I could even finish they ran out and bought a kit for themselves.
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